Italian Seafood Stew
SERVES 4
INGREDIENTS:
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 small carrot, peeled and finely chopped
1 small celery stalk, finely chopped
2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, plus more to serve
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1 medium garlic clove, minced
¼ to ½ teaspoon red pepper flakes
¼ cup dry white wine or dry vermouth
14½-ounce can whole peeled tomatoes, crushed by hand
Kosher salt and ground black pepper
1 pound boneless, skinless firm white fish steaks or fillets, such as swordfish or monkfish (see notes), cut into 1- to 1½-inch pieces
8 ounces dry sea scallops (see notes), side tendons removed, or 8 ounces large (21/25 per pound) shrimp, peeled and deveined
1 pound small hardshell clams (about 1½ inches in diameter) or mussels, scrubbedLemon wedges, to serve.
DIRECTIONS:
1. In a large Dutch oven over medium, heat the oil until shimmering. Add the carrot, celery and parsley; cook, stirring occasionally, until slightly softened, about 4 minutes. Add the tomato paste, garlic and pepper flakes; cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the wine and cook, scraping any browned bits, until syrupy, about 1 minute. Add the tomatoes with juices, ½ cup water and ½ teaspoon salt. Bring to a simmer, then cover partially, reduce to medium-low and cook, stirring occasionally, until slightly thickened and the aromatics have fully softened, 15 to 17 minutes.
2. Stir in the fish, cover and cook until a skewer inserted into the largest piece meets a little resistance, 10 to 15 minutes. Increase to medium-high, then scatter the scallops over the surface, followed by the clams. Cover and cook until the clams have opened, about 5 minutes, stirring once about halfway through.
3. Stir again, then discard any clams that have not opened. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Serve sprinkled with additional parsley and with lemon wedges.
Notes: Don’t use canned diced tomatoes, which are processed with calcium chloride that keeps their texture firm. Canned whole tomatoes that are crushed by hand better integrate into the broth and meld with the other ingredients.
In Ancona, the capital of the Marche region on Italy’s Adriatic coast, we learned two similar types of fisherman’s stew. Chef Raffaele Attili at Trattoria La Cantineta demonstrated his recipe for guazzetto and chef Corrado Biló at Trattoria La Moretta taught us brodetto. Both were tomato based and featured four or more types of seafood. We combined our favorite attributes of each to create our version of seafood stew. Be sure to use a firm, meaty white fish that won’t flake apart in the broth. Swordfish is a good option, as is monkfish. We especially like scallops in this dish. Seek out “dry” sea scallops, ones that have not been treated with sodium tripolyphosphate (STPP), a preservative that forces them to retain water. Dry scallops have a creamy pinkish hue, a sweeter and purer flavor. If not available, shrimp are delicious, too. Serve with crusty bread for dipping.
Start to finish: 1 hour 10 minutes
Recipes provided by Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street Television; used with permission.
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