Mexican-Style Corn with Chili and Lime (Esquites)
SERVES 4
INGREDIENTS:
1 tablespoon grapeseed or other neutral oil
4 cups fresh corn kernels (from about 5 ears corn) or frozen corn, thawed and patted dry
2 tablespoons salted butter, cut into 2 pieces
½ cup lightly packed fresh flat-leaf parsley, roughly chopped
2 tablespoons roughly chopped fresh basil
1 serrano chili, stemmed and halved lengthwise, one half finely chopped, reserved separately
Kosher salt and ground black pepper
¼ cup sour cream or Mexican crema
2 tablespoons mayonnaise
2 tablespoons lime juice, plus lime wedges to serve
¼ to ½ teaspoon cayenne pepper
2 ounces cotija cheese, finely grated (½ cup)
DIRECTIONS:
1. In a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high, heat the oil until shimmering. Add the corn in an even layer and cook without stirring for 1 minute, allowing the kernels to start to brown on the bottom. Cook, stirring occasionally, until more of the kernels are charred, 4 to 5 minutes.
2. Add the butter and stir until melted. Stir in 1½ cups water, the parsley, basil, the intact half of the serrano and ½ teaspoon salt. Bring to a simmer and cook, uncovered and stirring occasionally, until the liquid is reduced to about ¼ cup, 5 to 6 minutes.
3. Off heat, stir in the sour cream, mayonnaise, lime juice and cayenne. Remove and discard the chili half, then taste and season with salt and pepper. Transfer to a serving dish and sprinkle with the cotija and chopped serrano. Serve with lime wedges.
Notes: Don’t stir the corn for the first minute it’s in the skillet. Undisturbed cooking allows the kernels to begin to develop flavorful browning and caramelization.
To make esquites, a popular type of Mexican street food, corn is typically roasted or grilled, then the kernels are simmered with an herb called epazote before being finished with crema (Mexican sour cream), mayonnaise, lime, chili and cotija cheese. The slightly brothy mix is served in cups and eaten with a spoon. Our version of esquites is based on the recipe Jorge Fritz and Beto Estúa taught us at Casa Jacaranda cooking school in Mexico City. Epazote has a unique flavor and aroma that is difficult to mimic. The herb is not widely available in U.S. supermarkets; Fritz and Estúa suggested a combination of fresh parsley and basil, so that’s what we call for in our recipe. Plump, tender kernels cut from ears of fresh corn are the first choice for making esquites, but in non-summer months, an equal amount of frozen corn kernels that have been thawed and patted dry will work; they’ll just take a little longer to brown.
Start to finish: 30 minutes
Recipes provided by Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street Television; used with permission.
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