Romanian Crème Fraîche Cake (Lichiu)
Makes 16 pieces
INGREDIENTS:
For the dough:
228 grams (1¾ cups) all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
81 grams (¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons) white sugar
¼ teaspoon table salt
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons whole milk, room temperature
2 large egg yolks, room temperature
1 tablespoon grated lemon zest
1 teaspoon instant yeast
57 grams (4 tablespoons) salted butter, cut into 1-tablespoon pieces, room temperature, plus more for the pan
For the crème fraîche layer:
341 grams (1½ cups) crème fraîche
2 large egg yolks
1 tablespoon white sugar
¼ teaspoon table salt
For the semolina layer and for finishing:
2 cups whole milk
214 grams (1 cup) white sugar
½ teaspoon table salt
85 grams (½ cup) fine semolina flour (see notes)
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
1 tablespoon grated lemon zest
4 large egg whites, room temperature
Powdered sugar, to serve
DIRECTIONS:
1. For the dough, in a stand mixer with the paddle attachment, mix the flour, sugar and salt on medium-low for 30 seconds. In a small bowl, whisk the milk, yolks, lemon zest and yeast. With the mixer running, slowly add the milk-egg mixture; mix until evenly moistened, about 30 seconds. Increase to medium and beat until a sticky dough forms, 2 to 3 minutes.
2. Scrape the bowl. With the mixer on medium-low, add the butter 1 piece at a time, mixing for 15 seconds between. When all the butter is added, mix on medium, scraping the sides and paddle as needed, until a sticky, elastic, batter-like dough forms, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove the paddle and scrape off the dough that clings. Scrape the sides of the bowl and gather the dough at the center. Cover and let rise at room temperature for 1½ hours; the dough will not double.
3. Meanwhile, butter a 9-by-13-inch baking pan or glass baking dish, then line it with a 12-by-16-inch sheet of kitchen parchment so the ends overhang the long sides of the pan. Butter the parchment.
4. One hour into rising, prepare the crème fraîche and semolina layers. To make the crème fraîche layer, in a medium bowl, combine all ingredients. Whisk until homogeneous; set aside. For the semolina layer, in a medium saucepan, combine the milk, sugar and salt. Simmer over medium, whisking, then reduce to low. While whisking, stream in the semolina. Cook, whisking, until it returns to a simmer and is thick, smooth and resembles pudding, 2 to 3 minutes; a film will develop on the bottom. Transfer to a medium bowl. Using a silicone spatula, stir in the vanilla and lemon zest; cool until ready to use.
5. After the dough has risen for 1½ hours, scrape it into the center of the prepared pan. With lightly floured hands, start at the center and gently press into an even layer to the edges and corners of the pan. Re-flour your hands as needed and press the dough firmly to remove any bubbles. Do not pull or stretch the dough, which may cause it to tear. Let the dough rest, uncovered, 30 minutes. Meanwhile, heat the oven to 400°F with a rack in the middle position. Wash and dry the mixer bowl.
6. After the dough has rested for 30 minutes, add the egg whites to the clean mixer bowl. Using the whisk attachment, beat the whites on medium until frothy, about 1 minute. Increase to medium-high and whip until the whites are glossy and form soft, droopy peaks, about 3 minutes. Using a silicone spatula, stir the semolina mixture to loosen it. Using the spatula, fold in one-third of the egg whites until mostly combined. Fold in the remaining egg whites until no streaks remain.
7. Gently pour the semolina mixture onto the center of the dough; spread in an even layer to the edges. Slowly pour the crème fraîche mixture over it; spread in an even layer that covers the semolina layer. Bake until the surface is spotty brown and just set but jiggles at the center when shaken, 35 to 40 minutes. Cool in the pan on a wire rack for 30 minutes.
8. Run a thin-bladed knife between the cake and the pan. Using the parchment overhang as handles, lift the cake out of the pan and set it on the rack; carefully slide the parchment out from underneath. Cool completely. To serve, cut the cake lengthwise into quarters, then crosswise into quarters, forming 16 pieces. Dust with powdered sugar just before serving.
Notes: Don’t whip the egg whites until you are ready to use them. Once whipped, the egg whites need to be immediately incorporated into the cooled semolina mixture. If they wait for too long, they may start to break down. Also, take care not to overwhip the whites or they will be difficult to incorporate into the semolina mixture. When the whisk attachment is lifted, the whites should form long, droopy peaks, not curls that stand upright.
During a trip to Transylvania, we tasted lichiu, a sweet yeasted dough spread with a creamy, lemony, semolina filling and a custard upper layer made with crème fraîche and egg yolks. The semolina and custard fuse during baking, resulting in a delicious marriage of a brioche-like bottom crust beneath a rich, dense cheesecake-like topping. We adapted a recipe from Romanian cookbook author Irina Georgescu. Be sure to use fine, not coarse, semolina flour for proper hydration—Bob’s Red Mill is a good choice—and to ensure the semolina thickens properly, after streaming it into the boiling water, return the mixture to a full simmer. Only lightly sweet, lichiu can be served any time of day. Refrigerate leftovers in an airtight container; bring to room temperature for serving.
Start to finish: 3½ hours (40 minutes active), plus cooling
Recipes provided by Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street Television; used with permission.
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